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Equipment and Materials Needed:
 Wax
Wax Additive (if you are using)
Wicking (make sure to use the correct size depending on the type of wax and diameter of mold)
Metal Pillar Mold
Wick Bar
Wick Screw and Mold Sealer or Magnetized Mold Sealer
Silicone Spray
Double Boiler (melting pot in a pan of boiling water)
Thermometer
Candle Color Chip
Candle Fragrance
Cool Water Bath
Mold Weight
Long, Narrow Stick (Bamboo Skewer works well)
Newspaper
Pot Holders
Directions:
Step 1. Before starting the actual steps of making a molded candle, it is advisable to spread newspaper over your working area in case of spills. Also, if possible, avoid pouring the wax in or near your sink as it will clog your drains.
Step 2. Prepare the metal pillar mold by first inserting the wick into the wick hole from the underside of the mold and pulling it through the hole until it reaches the top of the mold. Secure the wick at the top to the wick bar which will lie across the opening of the mold.
Step 3. With the wick tightly secured at the opening of the mold, pull it taut at the point of insertion and secure with the wick screw. Cut the wick about an inch away from the screw. Wind the end of the wick counter-clockwise under the head of the screw. Tighten and secure with either mold sealer or masking tape to prevent seepage. Instead of using the wick screw and mold sealer combination, you can use the magnetized mold sealer instead. To do this, the wick needs to be cut to approx. 1 inch from the wick hole and place the magnetized mold sealer on the bottom of the mold completely covering the wick hole and the wick. Make sure that the wick is completely tucked under the magnet or else seepage will occur.
Step 4. Spray the inside of the mold thoroughly with silicone spray which will allow your candle to release easily when it is dry.
Step 5. Prepare a cool water bath to be used to help the candle harden. If you are using the cool water bath method, the bath should be deep enough to accommodate the entire length of the candle. It is a good idea to set the water bath in a sink for ease of emptying when you are finished. You should not use a cool water bath for beeswax candles.
Step 6. Begin melting your wax and additives in a double boiler on the stove top. To do this, fill a pot about a quarter full with water. Place your pouring pot inside this pot and begin heating over medium heat. Stir the wax occasionally and use a thermometer to check the temperature as it melts. Once your wax has melted, cool it down to the correct pouring temperature (depending on the type of wax you are using). When the wax has reached the correct pouring temperature, add the fragrance and color chip, stirring them into the wax thoroughly.
Step 7. Remove the melting pot from the boiling water and wipe off excess moisture that might be on the sides of the pot to prevent water droplets from entering the candle mold.
Step 8. While holding the mold with a pot holder, tilt it slightly and begin pouring the wax in slowly. Before pouring make sure the mold is at room temperature or warmer.
Step 9. After the desired height of your candle is reached, save a cupful of wax from the original pouring which will be used later to refill the well that is formed due to shrinking of the wax as it cools.
Step 10. Allow the mold containing the liquid wax to set for about 30 seconds before placing it in your water bath. This is to allow any air bubbles to rise that were formed while pouring. Before placing the mold into the water bath, wrap a mold weight around the base, and be extremely careful to keep water out of the mold while lowering it into the bath.
Step 11. About 45 minutes after pouring, you must insert a long, narrow stick two or three times near the wick to relieve the surface tension and admit air into the void area formed by the settling wax. Refill this cavity with the leftover wax that you had previously set aside pouring it at the same temperature and making sure to not overfill the well. If too much wax is poured in the well and seeps down between the mold and shrunken wax from the original pouring, a difficult time will result in removing the finished candle from the mold. In fact, it is best to refill the well only to within ¼" of its top. The protruding ¼" ridge may be trimmed off easily after withdrawal of the candle from the mold. Plan to refill the well at least two or three additional times, allowing approximately 45 minute intervals between each pouring depending on the size of the mold.
Step 12. The mold may be removed from the water bath anytime after the second refill or approximately two hours after it was placed in the bath. The final cooling process may then be continued either at room temperature or in the refrigerator. If cooled at room temperature, allow approximately eight hours from the initial pouring time before removing the candle. You may hurry this cooling process considerably, however, by placing the mold in the refrigerator. Since the colder temperatures in the refrigerator are nearer the bottom, a few precautions are necessary to assure an even cooling, thus preventing the development of "thermal shock" cracks. One important precaution is to reverse the mold position about every half-hour, thereby exposing the colder temperature to all parts of the wax evenly, rather than just the smallest part at the base. Also, never leave the mold in the refrigerator after it feels cold to the touch. The wax is ready to be withdrawn at this point and any excess period of exposure to the coldness will only result in unsightly cracks around the wax surface.
Step 13. Not until the mold is cold should any attempt be made to remove the candle. To extract the candle, first remove the wick screw and the mold sealer, thus, allowing the wick to hang free. Remove the wick bar and turn the mold upside down. Tap gently and squarely (if necessary) on a hard surface and it should drop right out. More often than not, however, tapping is not necessary.
Step 14. If the mold feels cold, but does not release, place it in the refrigerator for about an hour and then try again. If you are still unable to remove it, then as a last resort only, pour hot water over the mold. This softens the wax and normally ruins the candle, but it does permit withdrawal of the wax from the mold without damaging the mold. Never beat or pry on the mold to remove stubborn wax. Any indentations on the mold will only tend to hold the wax more firmly, thus adding to your troubles and making your mold unsatisfactory for future pourings.
Step 15. To remove any "seam line" on the candle surface, take a knife or spatula, hold it at a right angle to the candle and slide it down the seam.
Step 16. Trim the wick on the top of the candle to ½ inch. Trim the wick on the base of the candle as close to the wax as possible.
Step 17. For the candle to stand up straight, you may have to square off the base by either cutting and trimming with a knife or by rotating the candle in a heated pie tin, thereby, melting off the irregularities and smoothing off the base.
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